This post is the fourth in a multi part series on swamp cooler maintenance, repair, and replacement. If you haven’t read parts 1, 2, and 3 yet, I recommend you do before continuing.
How to winterize your swamp cooler (continued)
- Shut off, drain, and/or disconnect the water supply. First, locate the water shut off valve. The valve should be far enough down the line that there’s no chance of the water on the supply side freezing. For roof mounted units, it will often be in the attic. For ground mounted units, it might be in a crawl space or other nearby interior space. Every system is set up a little differently depending on the constraints of the space and who installed it, so it may or may not be possible to disconnect the water line. If you can disconnect it, do so, then drain the water out of the line and store it for next spring. If you can’t disconnect it completely, then just drain it as best you can – keeping in mind that if too much water remains then you’ll need a new line next spring.
- Remove standing water from the pan. Newer coolers will have a drain valve in the bottom of the pan to make this easier. However, some pros prefer not to use the drain valve, as opening and resealing the valve can cause a leak point next spring if the valve isn’t in good condition. If you have an older unit or just want to be extra thorough, you can sponge the water out of the pan or use a wet/dry vacuum on it. It’s important to remove this standing water during winterization to prevent rust and minimize scale build up inside your unit caused by hard water.
Check back soon for How to do swamp cooler maintenance, when to replace it, and what to replace it with, part 5. In the meantime, check out our page on swamp cooler maintenance.